Many Berbers, the original inhabitants before the Islamization of Morocco, still live almost isolated in villages without the least like this from Anfgú in the Middle Atlas Mountains. The Berbers maintained their language and culture, often overshadowed by the weight of the official Arabization. I arrived on a frigid winter in 2007 at Anfgú together with other Spanish reporters alarmed by the high childhood mortality. Dozens of babies had died and the causes were unknown. There were no doctors tens of miles around. The only transportation was an old truck shared by neighbors and cattle. The scene was gruesome. Harsh conditions of life, with children without shelter and stalactites of frozen snot in their noses. Our reports were not approved in Rabat. In a rare case of reaction to the harsh reality, King Mohamed VI visited Anfgu a few weeks later.